Fatty Food on the Fly – Sky Harbor Airport Travelers Struggle to Find Healthful Cuisine by Janie Magruder from The Arizona Republic on August 21, 2001
It's 90 minutes before Greg Getzoff will climb into the cockpit of a Mesa Airlines jet bound for Palm Springs, Calif. - enough time to enjoy a sit-down meal of soup, salad and the low-fat entree he's craving.
But such fare is hard to find in Terminal 3 at Phoenix Sky Harbor International, the country's ninth-busiest airport. So Getzoff settles for egg salad on rye at Johnny Rockets and vows to make up for it with a nutritious snack later.
"The food at airports is dictated by what the market will bear," said the Phoenix pilot, who dines three times a week between flights at Sky Harbor, then falls back on fruit and microwaveable soup in a small cooler he carries on board. "Fast and convenient - it's what America wants."
A recent survey of the nation's 10 busiest airports shows that may be true. More than 40 percent of airport restaurants in major cities don't offer even one low-fat, high-fiber, cholesterol-free entree, according to research by the Physicians Committee for Responsible Medicine, a Washington-based non-profit organization. Instead, it's mostly fast food, the very thing stressed travelers need the least.
"Plane changes and layovers can be frustrating enough without being limited to mystery-meat chili dogs and greasy hamburgers," said Brie Turner-McGrievy, a dietitian for the committee.
At Sky Harbor, only 25 of the airport's 43 restaurants offer a healthful choice, the survey said, ranking the airport sixth, ahead of Detroit Metro, Hartsfield Atlanta, Las Vegas McCarran, and Dallas/Fort Worth. In Phoenix, Oasis Deli, Johnny Rockets, Americo's Pizza and Lefty's South Rim Bar and Grill got passing marks from the committee; Burger King, Oaxaca and Nathan's Hot Dogs flunked.
The committee's main complaint about Sky Harbor: Chefs douse otherwise healthful foods with fatty cheeses.
"This is just one little piece of a very big problem," said Amy Lanou, the committee's nutrition director. "In general, we eat pretty horribly as a nation, and that's partly because of availability."
Barb Woods, a biomedical technician from Sioux Falls, S.D., sought nutritious food during a recent layover at Sky Harbor. Disappointed not to find more selection, she chose a roast beef sandwich on wheat with a small side salad from Oasis Deli.
"I consider this fast food," Woods said, pointing at her plate.
Chuck Campbell, who works for a consulting engineering firm in Phoenix, wolfed down a kraut dog, chips and a soda at Nathan's in Terminal 3 before rushing to catch a plane to Denver. Campbell, a frequent flier, said Terminal 4's food tastes better and is better for you, but convenience usually wins out.
"Most of the time, I end up with pizza," he said.
Ron Gross, manager of a pizza restaurant in Cincinnati, bought his sons, Dakota, 10, and Wyatt, 8, pizza and hamburgers before the long flight home. Gross presses healthful food on the boys before and after air travel.
"When you travel, you need to eat quickly and go," he said.
Sky Harbor officials are responding to passenger demand for more heart-healthful choices, spokeswoman Suzanne Luber said. Eight restaurants with nutritious options will open in Terminal 3 by the end of this year and more salads and hand-carved meats are planned for eateries in Terminal 2.
"It's a trend all airports are seeing - passengers are arriving at the airport earlier, and they're going on flights that don't have meals," Luber said. "People are looking for more healthy foods."
The committee - which in 1996 and 1997 conducted similar airport-restaurant surveys, in which Sky Harbor placed eighth among 25 - plans to offer nutritional help to eateries wanting to improve their menus. In the meantime, healthful choices can be found.
"Some restaurants are getting creative with delicious-sounding choices like portobello mushroom sandwiches and linguine with garlic and vegetables. Even in the worst airports, you can usually find a bean burrito or veggie burger."
Just hold the cheese.
-AT A GLANCE-
AIRPORT EATERIES
The Physicians Committee for Responsible Medicine recently rated the country’s 10 busiest airports on the quality of food in their restaurants. The committee didn’t expect much: A restaurant got a point if it had even one low-fat, high-fiber, cholesterol-free entrée on its menu. Results:
1. San Francisco International – If you’re looking for healthful food, this is the best place to have a long layover. Of its 25 restaurants, 24 offer wholesome entrees, from the veggie burger at Burger Joint to steamed garden vegetables at Lori’s Diner. Score: 96
2. Minneapolis-St. Paul International – It’s a fare cry from the City by the Bay in terms of food that’s good for you, but the vegetable platter at the Lake Line Restaurant and veggie sandwiches at a handful of delis give travelers a break from hot dogs and hamburgers. Score: 66
3. Chicago O’Hare International – The food isn’t that healthful, but at least this airport has a fitness center that can be sued by stranded travelers or others with time on their hands. Score: 64
4. Denver International – The Mile-High City is long on scenery but short on healthful food at it’s circus-tent airport. The Portobello Mushroom Sandwich at Lefty’s Colorado Trails Bar and Grill or vegetable sandwiches available at three airport restaurants are good alternatives. Score: 61
5. Los Angeles International – Pasta salad with a side of seasoned asparagus from the Proud Bird Restaurant or a veggie sandwich from Rhino Chases puts a small dent in the abundance of fast-food joints here. Four Burger Kings and four McDonalds? Score: 60
6. Phoenix Sky Harbor International – Chefs here have one big downfall: burying otherwise healthful foods in fatty cheeses. Look for the veggie burger at Lefty’s South Rim Bar and Grill. Score: 58
7. Dallas-Fort Worth International – The Lone Stare State might be better dubbed the “longhorn state.” Beef, beef and more beef is rustled up at this airport, although veggie sandwiches are available at the Fullati Café and Au Bon Pain. Score: 50
8. Las Vegas McCarran International – Among the Vienna sausage stands, Harlon’s Bar-B-Que and Pizza Hut, it’s a real crapshoot finding healthful food at Sin City’s airport. The bean burritos at Don Alejandro’s Texan Grill and the veggie burger at Cheer’s are good choices, as is the airport gym, which provides much more exercise than the one-armed bandits. Score: 45
9. Hartsfield Atlanta International – The nation’s busiest airport is sluggish about serving up foods that’s good for you. Try the Veggie Philly at Great Wraps or vegetable stir-fry at Manchu Wok. Score: 40
10. Detroit Metro – Great musical roots in the city but its airport’s food sure suffers. Hot dog stands, greasy grills and Cinnabons abound, but if you’re very lucky, your gate might be near a Taco Bell, where you can order a bean burrito, sans the cheese and sour cream.
