I honestly have to say that I'm not surprised at all. We used to hit the surf along the Texas Gulf Coast anytime a massive storm was coming in. Thrill seekers are thrill seekers and as long as its not the eye of the storm, it is sometimes the only opportunity to catch decent wind or waves in those locations. He just got caught up in a bad wind current, but he'll be back doing it all again with his buddies. I'm sorry he got hurt, but isn't risk part of why they do it?
If you go to the beaches of the world when there is a good storm rolling in, whether tropical depression or hurricane or cyclone, someone will be surfing or wind surfing those waters up until the last possible minute. The stupid ones are the ones out in the water when the storm makes landfall. 6-24 hours in advance means great waves, man, great waves...wish I was still on the coast. Sigh.